Wine fact and fiction

By Madeleine Ahlquist
Worcester Magazine

The mythology of wine is as rich and deep as a good bottle of cabernet. It can be tricky, though, to separate myth from reality, as there is usually a shade of truth at the core. Consider some of these more popular wine myths.

Myth 1: Old wine tastes better than new wine. Aging doesn't improve all wines. In most cases, it won't matter whether a bottle of wine is 12 months old or 12 years old.

Those wines that do improve with age are typically red wines with high tannin content. Too much tannin tastes harsh. Over time, the tannins mellow and add to the complexity of the wine's taste.

At a certain point, though, wine passes its peak. A very old bottle of wine, no matter how well it's stored, is unlikely to appeal to today's palate.

Myth 2: Wine must be stored on its side in a dark, humid place. Wine needs to be stored in a humid place - but only if it's stored in a barrel. Otherwise, the sealed bottle will protect the wine.

Temperature does have an impact. Wine should be stored in a cool place with a consistent temperature. Significant changes in temperature can cause wine to oxidize and spoil. Cold slows aging, while too much heat can cause wine to age too quickly. Strong sunlight can also damage wine, but complete darkness is not necessary.

What about storing wine sideways? Matt Kramer, author of Making Sense of Wine, tested sparkling wines stored both upright and sideways for two years and found no difference in quality. He also cites some Italian wineries that store bottles upright without an impact on quality.

We'll continue storing them sideways, anyway.

Myth 3: Drink red wine with meat and white wine with fish. Certainly, some wines complement certain foods better than others, but it also comes down to personal preference. A nice Pinot Noir might go fine with fish, while a Riesling might taste fine with the heartiest meat.

However, there is no right or wrong when it comes to taste. Whatever bottle of wine you like most with your meal is the one to have.

Myth 4: Truly good wines must come from France or California. While some of the best wines in the world come from these two regions, quality wines are produced in most parts of the world, including Italy, Spain, Australia, Chile and many regions of the United States.

Myth 5: Reserve wines are better. While reserve wines are often superior to regular wines, many non-reserve wines outperform many reserve wines. Reserve wines are aged longer in oak barrels than other wines. However, there is no set definition of what makes a wine a reserve wine. Some wines may be called "reserve" for marketing reasons, rather than because there is anything special about them.

Given the number of myths circulating about wine, it's best to keep in mind that not everything you hear is completely true.

Madeleine Ahlquist is co-owner of One Eleven Chop House and The Sole Proprietor in Worcester, both of which are frequent winners of Wine Spectator's "Award of Excellence." Comments? E-mail editorial@worcestermag.com.